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Twenty miles west of mainland Pembrokeshire is a group of rocks called The Smalls just large enough to accommodate a lighthouse. The turbulent waters that surround the rocks are teaming with grey seals. On this day we arrived after a two-hour boat ride to swell washing over the rocks and a fair tide running all around. Slipping in close to the rocks to freedive we were immediately greeted by seals zipping around us. The bubbles from breaking waves and shafts of sunlight provided drama and atmosphere. Once we settled in to the conditions we could take a deep breath and sink down to the kelp; the seals seemed to be most relaxed here and would come and lie with us staring deep in to our eyes or nibbling at our fins, an experience that will stay with us for a long time. 

The Smalls, Pembrokeshire





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